The Happy Pilgrim

I am posting from Rabanal del Camino on Wednesday 10 June and felt inspired by a downpour of rain, thunder and lightening, to put a few words together. Actually, it was much more than the down pour between Astorga and Rabanal that inspires me. It is the strange coincidence of running into people on the Camino that you hadn’t seen for weeks and the joy of walking together. The quirkiness of sitting in a warm bar and an old man (sitting opposite me), who, when not talking, is whistling a constant tune, and  the pleasure achieved by a good days walk, a warm shower, “happy feet” and clean clothes. I must also acknowledge the joy that being fit and healthy enough to do a holiday (pilgrimage) like this brings me each day.

I walked with Kelly today (from Melbourne). I ran into her as I came in to Astorga and was trying to find the Cathedral and my hotel. It had been a very long walk that day (30kms). It is advised, for safety reasons that Pilgrims walk together in this area. We were both aware that in April an Chineese-American woman (from Arizona) went missing in the area and ladies walking alone are strongly encouraged to pair up and walk together.  We were both very pleased to see each other and made plans to catch up in the evening and make arrangements to walk together the following day.

That evening we met for a drink in the plaza “as you do”.  My pilgrim-package included dinner at my hotel, so I just went for a drink and a chat, so no changes to my personality while in Spain!. We roared with laughter when Kelly ordered an ox t-bone and Kelly asked if it would be a decent size piece of steak. She had been unwell and her appetite had returned it was time to energise herself with good healthy food. I thought I heard the waitress say “1kg” but thought that it couldn’t be right. She returned with the chef and this huge piece of raw meat on a plate and our eyes nearly popped out of our heads! Another classic “lost in translation” moment. Needless to say Kelly made another order but not before we took a photo for Facebook!

There are so many lovely Spanish people who value Pilgrims and conduct themselves with pride and integrity. There are many examples in villages, or shops when I have been lost or confused at the end of the day or struggling to describe something  I  want to purchase (in “Spanglish”) and I have been assisted kindly and patiently by a local. Today Kelly and I stopped to listen to a man with a banjo playing under the eve of a run-down church in Puente de Panote. As we sailed by, his music put a smile on our face and he called out to us (and to everyone who went by) “watch for cars” which was very valuable advice as we  just popped out on to a busy road. We turned back and asked him if we could take a photo (Kelly wanted a video) but he said no and even though we were disappointed we respected his answer. We gave him a couple of euros because he had brightened our day. He kindly offered us a box of gem stones to choose from and we both humbly accepted one and  were on our way.

Pilgrims would be aware that there is a courtesy applied to utilising the toilet facilities of a local shop or bar. You need to buy something and, as long as they are clean and have paper, this is not unreasonable to keep the economy rolling along. On entering Puente de Panote we asked a local store owner if he had any bananas (which he didn’t) there was nothing else we needed so we used the facilities and offered him a euro each which he declined and insisted we took the money back.

This evening I am going to Vespers (sung by Benedictine Monks) in Rabanal (before dinner) and, if it's not too late or cold will try and attend the Pilgrims blessing later in the evening. I am looking forward to the experience and have already met a young American guy (travelling with his father who is a priest) who will be doing one of the readings. They ensure there are some aspectes in a number of languages which is lovely. Life in it’s most simplest is quite beautiful. The Camino has many magical moments including the beauty when a storm clears and the thunder and lightening subsides. Today has been another fabulous experience. Must get my shoes dry, check my water and get my day pack organised for tomorrow and of course upload this post.

Lots to do before Vespers, Pilgrims blessing, dinner and bedtime.

Until next time The Happy (water-logged) Pilgrim