The Happy Pilgrim

I have read that the transition from The Camino back to your previous life can be challenging, well that’s according to Brierley. I have sent my Guide Book home now to make space in my bags so there are no words of wisdom from him to recount or paraphrase. These reflections must be my own and re-editing my blog five years on, they remain similar to those thoughts published in late June 2015.

We must continue with being mindful and aware that while one develops a great fondness for the Camino, one can’t be on it forever. It is probably harder for some and not so hard for others. When I returned to Santiago on Sunday en route to Malaga, I found myself quite aware that I have had my time (my arrival is over and it’s time to move on). The street vendors have moved to other parts of the square and there are new tour buses arriving at the Cathedral. I found that Finisterre completed my Camino journey for me. That walk "to the end of the world" is not for everyone. It's incredibly personal. Some choose Finisterre, some choose Muxia and some chose both. It is more quiet.

For some, if they run out of time, leave too soon and don’t wind them selves out it could be very upsetting to finish too quickly. Sort of like leaving without saying goodbye. Walking all that way, and towards the end glimpsing the ocean was truly extraordinary. I am so pleased that veterans like Helen (from the UK) didn’t give that away because it was a delightful surprise.. When I walked off the track and on to the beach and into the ocean I knew I didn’t need any more arrows. I was home. All the Pilgrims I spoke to later in the day and that evening agreed that the 2 km beach walk was a perfect way to complete the journey. Those endless shells were a delight and I collected some to bring home.

Coincidentally, as I was sitting on the stone seat at the edge of town in front of yet, another bar along came Lizzy. She called out to me and I didn’t recognise her at first (being short sighed and without my prescription sunglasses!) I may mentioned I lost them walking out of Pamplona!  Lizzy had arrived to walk along the beach and meet up with Rory.  He was a few kilometres behind me, nearing the start of the beach walk that I had just finished. Rory had made a very romantic marriage proposal in Santiago de Compostela last Sunday. They had been together seven years and their Camino was very special and obviously life affirming. Lizzy had got a lift to Finisterre because of her ongoing knee problem. She bravely battled the injury nearly the whole journey from SJPDP and Rory watched over her and cared for her gallantly.  Together they epitomised patience, kindness and resilience and I sincerely wish them well on the next stage of their life journey. Rory opted to walk the extra kms and put in a second huge day of 35kms (a mammoth effort) and they were meeting up on the beach. She asked me to join them for dinner that evening and perhaps go with them to the lighthouse. I was mindful of their privacy but she kindly encouraged me along. We parted ways and later ran into them both twice more that afternoon (as you tend to do) around the village.

My final guest house was lovely but I couldn’t check in until 2pm. This meant I had some time up my sleeve and I went and purchased some more “non-pilgrim” clothes for my next stage in Malaga and Barcelona and then on to Doha. I also needed to submit my Pilgrim passport with my twice daily “sessos” (stamps) at the Municipal Albergue. This is where the Finisterre credential is issued. The Municipal didn’t open until 1:30pm so I used this time to order a coffee. I have been limiting my coffee in Spain as it’s been so mediocre. I am a fussy coffee drinker, however today, for some reason I decided to jump off the edge and give it another go. So the story goes I need to walk to the end of the earth to get the best coffee in Spain. It was so nice I had two and laughed with the gentle fellow in hippy pants and jingling bells around his ankles and great English who served me. (He looked tanned and calm and like he was from Biron Bay). His manager was fussing around and the two of them were exact opposites. I laughed (and so did he) because he knew I was perplexed about how he could remain so patient and calm while his manager bounced off the walls. There are lessons to be learned everywhere and I found my self warming to this special place on the North Atlantic coastline at the north-west tip of Spain.

At 1:20pm I lined up for my Finisterre credential and waited about a further 20 minutes after the albergue opened. The line moved slowly but surely and everyone was polite and eager at the same time. I chatted to some Canadian ladies in the queue who had walked the northern route and were heading on to Muxia the following day (another 30kms). They didn’t walk along the beach because they were concerned about their feet with their packs on their backs. (Too heavy with the sand and they didn’t want to injure themselves).  I hope they get a chance to do the beach walk as it was not only cleansing for the soul but also extremely therapeutic for tired feet. My feet are very happy as I transition out of The Camino and I am very aware that not everyone is as fortunate.

After this I wandered around (saw Rory and Lizzy) and got a meet up place and time and went on to take some more photos and enjoy the views. I found a bank and purchased my bus ticket back to Santiago the following morning. There were three buses to choose from the 9:45am didn’t give me much time to walk the beach again in the morning,  but the 11:45am bus gave me plenty of time where as the 16:45pm bus could mean I wouldn’t get a chance to visit Saint James at the Cathedral. I missed my chances when I was there Sun-Mon-Tues. The queues were always so long. I got some snacks (fruit and beans) for the bus and train and then made my way to my guest house. It was reasonably large but not too large and way up high on a hill. I had a view out my window which was lovely, a fan and there was a little swimming pool. I did the usual Pilgrim things, washed my clothes and myself and organised my bags then went out.

When you walk the distance I had it’s just inevitable that you run into Pilgrims that you have spoken to or seen before. Sometimes you never see them again and other times you run into them every town or every second town. You see them in the plaza, at mass, in the supermarkado, at dinner or at breakfast or when stopping at a bar (and toilet) between towns. Sometimes you stop and offer to take a photo of them or ask them how they were since you last spoke (especially if they are carrying injuries). This is what this “collective” of people do, Pilgrims watch out for each other, they say hello and they check in on you. Many are self aware and respect that people sometimes like to walk alone.  It’s truly lovely and I find myself wishing I could put together a brief, recommending some of our politicians (on both sides) do at least one Camino before the end of their first term in government!

Meeting up with Pilgrims that I knew previously was inevitable and I wasn’t surprised that I ran into a 64 year old man I met in Rabanal.  I saw him regularly since then plus the couple with the little baby who had just taken her first steps on the Camino. On my final morning I met with Arjan (from Holland) at breakfast, a Pilgrim who was introduced to me by Lizzy and Rory at dinner the night before. I took a great photo of him at the lighthouse doing a handstand and asked Lizzy to pass it on to him. Coincidentally we were at the same guesthouse. He asked me to join him for breakfast and I showed him the photos on my camera and some of those already loaded on my blog. He particularly like the photo or Rory on top of O’Cebrero (one of my favourites).  He gave me his details so I could email him some photos and permission to publish any photos of him I chose and then we said our goodbyes. On the bus, I saw Kevin again. I met for the first time at the lighthouse the night before and enjoyed some very funny stories. He had been teaching English as a second language in Spain for the last two years and was returning to the US to take up a masters in English Literature. He had a great head torch which was very smart as getting back off those rocks in the dark was tricky!  Along with Lizzy and Rory we shared a taxi back to town.

As I write this latest post I have just been on an overnight train from Santiago de Compostela to Madrid and I am now on a connecting train to Malaga. I woke very early and did a few yoga stretches *standing upright in the quiet walkway outside of my four-sleeper compartment. The windows were huge and I enjoyed looking outside at the early morning landscape. It was dry and beautiful at the same time. I noticed an abundance of olive trees and there they were (by chance) a herd of wild deer, some with huge antlers. The sun cast shadows on the landscape and it was reminiscent of the Meseta in some ways (but not as flat).

I may not run into any more Pilgrims I have met before from here on, but if I do I won’t be at all surprised.  The train ride last night was noisy and squashy but I was glad to be laying down as opposed to sitting up all night. It went fast and there was time to freshen up before arriving in Madrid. Finding out how to get my connection was a bit of a challenge as the people who spoke English didn’t know the platform details and passed me on to people who didn’t speak English.  I was “shepherded" and by this I mean “pointed” in the direction with little or no detail and only in Spanish  (and a whole heap of faith). I am learning that I can’t always get the whole picture (all the details) sometimes I have to just go to the next gate/door/platform and the rest will unfold. I think if anyone explained to me exactly what I was going to have to do, perhaps I wouldn’t have been able to cope! Needless to say, there was another  (inter-city) ticket to be issued, a platform to find, an interconnecting train to catch to another station. Then a queue to stand in, a different area to move to, another queue to seek directions and finally 20 minutes before departure I found my platform and train. But I made it and that's the main thing!

When I purchased my tickets on Tuesday I had the option “upgrade” to first class for an extra 1euro on the last leg (Madrid-Malaga).. All I can say is “VERY NICE”. I have a lovely single seat next to a window all on my own. Plenty of leg room, a fabulous tray table to set up my iPad and keyboard and we even got some nice food. This means I don’t need to get a headache from skipping breakfast at Madrid train station or worry about lunch when I get to Malaga. I just need to find myself a hotel close to the station. Easy to do with “maps.me” and ”Tripso” app both on my iPhone.  It will be the same routine when I book in (shower, wash clothes) sort bag quickly and out to explore again.

The big change from the Camino is that there’s not as much free wifi evident… no free wifi on trains or bus stations (or on trains or buses). There was wifi 98% of the time from what I found. It wasn’t always fast but it was available and free.  You can’t complain about that. Never-mind I can still collect my thoughts on the train without it and comfortable trains are certainly a great new experience for me. The time flies and before you know it you’re there.

Tomorrow I catch another train 50kms out of Malaga and walk the Caminito Del Rey and I can’t wait.

The warm weather in Spain was glorious. Back home everyone was struggling through a very cold winter. I later realised that in 2015 I had two summers and I never really coped well with winters in Canberra after that.

Until next time, adios from The Happy Pilgrim in sunny-southern Spain.

I am writing this latest post from Palas de Rei on Thursday 18 June and I am now, only 68.2kms from Santiago de Compostela. I can hardly believe how quickly this epic journey has gone.  I have been walking for 32 days, with rest days in Pamplona (2 nights), Burgos (2 nights), Leon (3 nights).  I have 3 more days of walking and I will be there. I am so pleased that I made some adjustments to my itinerary; skipping past Caldadilla de le Cueza and walking on to Terrradillos de Temlparious and walking a bit longer in the section leading up to O’Cebreiro. These minor changes allowed me an extra night in Leon and Santiago (3 nights instead of 2). I loved Leon and I know that Santiago will be a rare treat before I head off to the end of my Camino in Finisterre. "The End of the World".

There are a too many magical moments of The Camino to do them justice in my humble amateur blog. I thought it would be useful to start noting them down before they are lost.  My dear Uncle Christopher gave me wise advice before I started and suggested I write something down every day. Thank goodness I followed his advice. He also prayed for me and met me at Sydney airport. A huge effort as he was recovering from knee surgery and his trip to the airport was his first big outing. He prayed for me and Skyped me and was wonderful presence along the way.

Because of this advice, I posted a few short paragraphs each leg (day) on Facebook with some of my favourite photos of that day. This has been very useful as time goes on and I reflect back and attempt to sort my photos. This is my greatest challenge and one I procrastinated for some time!  My blog has been lots of fun and continued after my journey. I did hope to upload more photos but five years on and I am finally reviewing my text, correcting typos and adding in important further reflections. Not for my audience (my fans who followed me) but for me.

The walking in itself is magical and so are the people so I have stories of both, some to share and some I choose to keep to myself. The Camino is life changing and I knew that pretty much before I left Australia. Each day this was reaffirmed.  To give yourself permission to take time out to walk across a country is a very unique experience. It's something people back home may not really appreciate or respect. There are many people who can't understand why anyone would want to embark on this kind of adventure, but the Pilgrims on The Camino actually ‘get it’. Pilgrims who have completed their Camino really do get it.  I have been fortunate to have been provided wise advice from Joan and Rose and also my nephew Andrew before heading off.

Many of the Pilgrims I have met enjoy fitness (including walking) and are committed to building their strength and endurance before they set out and continue to do it while on the Camino each day. They enjoy the benefits of building strength and resilience which are obvious outcomes when embarking on this ancient route. If you absolutely hated exercise you wouldn’t be here because you exercise every day to get from point A to point B.

Many Pilgrims I walked and spoke with appreciate and value the environment. They enjoy the farm land, the pastures and the picturesque mountain ranges. Many of them embrace alternative energy like wind and solar.  When you are walking you notice the wind on the wheat, the sun on the poppies and the length of a road at the end of a very hot day. There is also the World Heritage "ancient" path we follow that Pilgrims before us have trod and that is also very special. You also build an appreciation for the path beneath your feet. Some days the rocks are a challenge and you appreciate the softness of grass on the shoulder of the road. If you are carrying an injury you notice this more and if you shoes or socks are wrong it can really add to your pain.

The religious connection with the journey is subtle for some and more profound (or obvious) for others. Most people don’t want to tell you everything about themselves (which is perfectly fine by me), but it is obvious that I am amongst good people with (what I call) a Christian ethic. They have a goodness inside them, a gentleness and patience that is lovely to be around.  If they aren’t Christian their religion is not obvious to me and is so closely aligned to Christianity I can’t tell. Mostly we surround ourselves back home with good “like-minded” people but there seems to be a concentration of them here and I find it quite addictive and a pleasure and a great joy to be around.

I mentioned in my earlier blog, the day I walked over the Pyrenees everyone I spoke with afterwards noticed the rainbows and really appreciated those small snippets of sun warming us from the otherwise near freezing gail force winds. They all agreed that there was something magic with that very cold day and wouldn’t have had it any other way.  You can’t appreciate the sunny days, unless you experience some rainy ones and this is very true of the The Camino. I have been blessed by great weather with only a few days of rain walking to Roncesvalles, Zubiri and Rabanal.

People who walk The Camino appreciate their feet and while many people aren’t experts on what your feet, socks, shoes and pack weight have in mind for you, they understand what a blister can do to affect your progress. And even if they don’t learn it straight away, they do learn the importance of resting and treating your feet so they can recover and take you on safely to your next destination. Look after yourself (health wise) and it will sustain you to enjoy more of life on The Camino (which is symbolic of your life journey). I am still mindful and remain committed to this.

I will update more of the blog when I get to Santiago and write about the kindness and the humour and the humility I have experienced. I have also been able to experience a quietness which allows me to listen to the birds chirping madly and hear a church bell in the distance or a tractor coming down the laneway out of a little village. I love hearing the roosters, or the cows or a bell on a herd of cattle perched high on a mountain. While I like listening to my iPod while walking back home, I have only popped my earplugs in three brief times (twice along side a very noisy road and the last time during the last 2kms on that really hot day on the Mesesta).  Perhaps I will listen more to my local birds when I get home and take the opportunity to listen more mindfully to what the morning has to offer.

I am going to publish this now and update later on and include some of my latest (favourite photos).

Please note readers, when I get home I will edit and upload photos and tidy them up in a more professional looking slideshow. It’s a bit of a challenge to make it look exactly like I want it to on the iPad and with slower and different internet speeds between towns sometimes it takes me a long time to publish. As mentioned, The Happy Pilgrim is a slow 'work-in-progress'.

A snapshot of my "magical moments" include;

1. Elivera (from  Utah) suggesting I walk with Charlotte from Denmark (while she took care of Eve from Germany). Gosh I'm so pleased that I wrote all this down because when I look back, it is 5 years now,  I can recall the names! I am regularly reminded how important my Camino was (then) and now.

2. Meeting Crystal and Candice (daughter-mother team) at Orrison on 14 May as they walked over the Pyrenees and seeing them three or four times during the last five and a half weeks and hearing stories of their progress from new Pilgrims I walked with (such as Nuala from Ireland). Then, I can hardly believe it, arriving in Santiago the same day and having dinner with them to celebrate that night!

3. Meeting Ad from Holland, by chance in Leon and then again in Villadangos Del Paramo on my birthday and at the same time meeting Rory, Jay and Maureen. Sadly Lizzy was sick in bed recovering from a tummy bug that night.  Then I saw Ad again on arrival at The Cruze de Ferro. I took a photo of him and got his email to send it on then ran into him again at Acebo (6kms along). I left my back pack with him (and my camera), showed him how to find his photo and went off to use the “facilities” and order something to eat.

When I returned he had tears in his eyes and thanked me most sincerely for the photos telling me it was very special. I was obviously pleased, but here's the thing, a few days later in Villafranca de Bierzo an American couple at the same hotel told me a story of that same day. They happened to be sitting at the next table where where Ad and I and another Dutch lady had lunch in Acebo. They told me that they were so moved by his reaction to my photo that they were compelled to tell me what went on when Ad first saw my photo. This was truly beautiful (and moving).

4. Running into the family from Victoria (Carl, Bronwyn and Albert) and sharing dinner with them three times over the course of the Camino. Then, by chance I saw them on Sunday 21 June,  they also arrived in Santiago same day as me, this was also very special. They were great company, practical, funny and great conversationalists.

5. Finally, the joy of meeting Judy when I left Santiago this morning, Wednesday 24 June. She had tears in her eyes and was standing out the front of the Parador in the Cathedral square as I walked by. I recalled her pensivness and we obviously felt something similar because her tears put tears in my eyes. A few short kilometres later she was walking with me and we had a lovely day talking about important things you normally wouldn't speak about to a stranger. That's the beauty of The Camino and I am blessed to be here.

Judy was from California and lived in the mountains. She was into numerology and insightful about certain coincidences. She'd walked all the way with a friend she met on day one and now she was walking alone. We both were on that quiet part of the pilgrimage. She shared with me insights into her relationship with her ex-husband. A very personal account of her life and her only son. We had some things in common then and more so now. She reminded me to be kind to myself and others and that a separated life need not be one filled with anger, sadness or loneliness. I walked for most of the day and it took me until the afternoon to share my story of my dear friend (also called Judy/Jude/Judith) who had passed away from bowel cancer in July 2008. I had been thinking of her when I woke up that morning and really missed her. I wanted to share my adventures, have a cry and a laugh with her like I used to. I was missing her more than usual. Her death left a big hole in my heart. I wanted to call her, but of course I could not.

Until next time – The Happy Pilgrim

I am posting from Rabanal del Camino on Wednesday 10 June and felt inspired by a downpour of rain, thunder and lightening, to put a few words together. Actually, it was much more than the down pour between Astorga and Rabanal that inspires me. It is the strange coincidence of running into people on the Camino that you hadn’t seen for weeks and the joy of walking together. The quirkiness of sitting in a warm bar and an old man (sitting opposite me), who, when not talking, is whistling a constant tune, and  the pleasure achieved by a good days walk, a warm shower, “happy feet” and clean clothes. I must also acknowledge the joy that being fit and healthy enough to do a holiday (pilgrimage) like this brings me each day.

I walked with Kelly today (from Melbourne). I ran into her as I came in to Astorga and was trying to find the Cathedral and my hotel. It had been a very long walk that day (30kms). It is advised, for safety reasons that Pilgrims walk together in this area. We were both aware that in April an Chineese-American woman (from Arizona) went missing in the area and ladies walking alone are strongly encouraged to pair up and walk together.  We were both very pleased to see each other and made plans to catch up in the evening and make arrangements to walk together the following day.

That evening we met for a drink in the plaza “as you do”.  My pilgrim-package included dinner at my hotel, so I just went for a drink and a chat, so no changes to my personality while in Spain!. We roared with laughter when Kelly ordered an ox t-bone and Kelly asked if it would be a decent size piece of steak. She had been unwell and her appetite had returned it was time to energise herself with good healthy food. I thought I heard the waitress say “1kg” but thought that it couldn’t be right. She returned with the chef and this huge piece of raw meat on a plate and our eyes nearly popped out of our heads! Another classic “lost in translation” moment. Needless to say Kelly made another order but not before we took a photo for Facebook!

There are so many lovely Spanish people who value Pilgrims and conduct themselves with pride and integrity. There are many examples in villages, or shops when I have been lost or confused at the end of the day or struggling to describe something  I  want to purchase (in “Spanglish”) and I have been assisted kindly and patiently by a local. Today Kelly and I stopped to listen to a man with a banjo playing under the eve of a run-down church in Puente de Panote. As we sailed by, his music put a smile on our face and he called out to us (and to everyone who went by) “watch for cars” which was very valuable advice as we  just popped out on to a busy road. We turned back and asked him if we could take a photo (Kelly wanted a video) but he said no and even though we were disappointed we respected his answer. We gave him a couple of euros because he had brightened our day. He kindly offered us a box of gem stones to choose from and we both humbly accepted one and  were on our way.

Pilgrims would be aware that there is a courtesy applied to utilising the toilet facilities of a local shop or bar. You need to buy something and, as long as they are clean and have paper, this is not unreasonable to keep the economy rolling along. On entering Puente de Panote we asked a local store owner if he had any bananas (which he didn’t) there was nothing else we needed so we used the facilities and offered him a euro each which he declined and insisted we took the money back.

This evening I am going to Vespers (sung by Benedictine Monks) in Rabanal (before dinner) and, if it's not too late or cold will try and attend the Pilgrims blessing later in the evening. I am looking forward to the experience and have already met a young American guy (travelling with his father who is a priest) who will be doing one of the readings. They ensure there are some aspectes in a number of languages which is lovely. Life in it’s most simplest is quite beautiful. The Camino has many magical moments including the beauty when a storm clears and the thunder and lightening subsides. Today has been another fabulous experience. Must get my shoes dry, check my water and get my day pack organised for tomorrow and of course upload this post.

Lots to do before Vespers, Pilgrims blessing, dinner and bedtime.

Until next time The Happy (water-logged) Pilgrim

I have just reached the half way point of my epic Pilgrimage and it’s hard to believe how quickly the time has passed. The official “halfway” point between St Jean Pied de Port and Santiago de Compostella is Tarradillos de los Templarios my destination point on Tuesday 2nd of June. As I am going on to the “End of the Earth” (Finisterre) which is  another 90kms the more accurate midway point for me is Leon. I have walked a few more kms in this stage and plan to walk a few more than scheduled so that I can enjoy a three night rest in both Leon and Santiago de Compostela.

I have experienced some magnificent countryside and met some wonderful people  and committing myself to semi-regular blogs is a great way ensure that all precious moments aren’t lost from my memory. The countryside varies from region to region. At the start of my Camino there were mountains and the views were spectacular and weather permitting the mountains were simply magnificent (breathtaking in fact). While the Pyrenees can provide changeable weather it can also open up amazing opportunities to develop resilience and make strong and very unique friendships. The moments where the sun came out not only warmed our bodies but also our spirits. The good camera  stayed in the bag and the iPhone got a work out on those wet days but there were still many opportunities to experience great beauty and appreciate the countryside. I am pleased with my addiction to document as, at this half way point it is hard to remember what day it is let alone what happened on the day I took a certain  photo. I am pleased I am writing, happy I am entertaining some and have no concern what so ever if  anyone is disinterested.

Walking gives you the opportunity to experience nature “up close” to spell your surrounding, to hear the farm animals (or the crickets or frogs) and to experience the joy of a choir of birds in the early morning. It appears that Spanish birds are “happy”, they sing loudly and for most of the day.  Perhaps it is because I am happy to be out walking that I hear them (because I know that Australian birds in Canberra are happy too. I am fotunate to experience the joy of nature for a large part of the day (20-30kms) of it in fact so I guess there is a lot of time to experience this phenomenon!.

Walking (long distances like I am doing) really makes you  appreciate your body. Predominantly your legs and feet but also your mind. Both mind and body are key elements that sustain you. You need to get your head around your distance; what you are carrying (food and snacks) and the time you leave so you arrive in time to rest and recuperate. Of course some days there is a lot of work washing and drying clothes and boots/shoes. If you push yourself too hard you could get an injury and there have been many Pilgrims carrying injuries (some quite bad ones). I am astounded how easily an injury can arise. I was overtaken earlier yesterday morning by a young man with amazing long legs who had his knee wrapped in a brace. Later in the day he had taken the brace off and was struggling to walk with the aid of his poles. As I passed him I told him my heart ached with the pain he was experiencing. I know he made it into the next town and I hope he gets the rest he needs.

I also met some Australians yesterday who had a few rest days and utilised either a taxi or bus to help them keep on schedule. Out of this party one lady (Jenny) had such bad blisters she had utilised bus and taxi, one lady (Vicky) got some cortisone injections and has been soldiering on bravely and utilising bus and taxi when needed and another Australian couple one of their party had been sent ahead by ambulance to Leon with more serious health issues internal bleeding (which made me grateful for not over dosing on my high strength ibuprofen 600mg 3 x per day as recommended at the Farmacia!

The Camino is not without incident, some Pilgrims recover and can resume their walk and some people come to the conclusion that they need to finish or make alternative arrangements by changing their itinerary. There is (from what I have heard from other Pilgrims) a great deal of soul searching with giving oneself “permission” to not complete the Camino and I do hope my preparation continues to allow me to complete my epic adventure across north-west Spain.  Thank you to those people who have been sending me well wishes through various mechanisms (email, Facebook and on my blog) and those who have kept me in their thoughts and prayers. You most definitely inspire me onwards.

I have taken up my writing and will post this piece from Leon which is indeed a most beautiful city. I am sitting in a beautiful restaurant in the square overlooking the magnificent cathederal  Santa Maria. I have had a delightful meal (lunch between 3-4pm) and know I am in a gorgeous spot because every tourist or Pilgrim that walks by stops in front of my table (and the two next to me) and takes a photo! The bight in the afternoon sun has finally subsided and the breeze is cooler and the meal has been relatively cheap and absolutely delicious. In Spain I have been eating well (when I am hungry) and starting the day as healthy as the menus provide and really celebrate the salads and vegetables. The wine is magnificent (99% of the time) and the fruit is so cheap it’s embarrassing. I brought some delicious beans in Carrion from a local grocery store and regret now not buying 20 instead of just four giant ones!

I have three nights in Leon and am staying is a gorgeous hotel that is part museum. I have a simple tidy room with a bed and my own bathroom in a magnificent setting. Breakfast is included (dinner is not). This will push me out on to the busy streets to enjoy the delicious menus on offer in the various restaurants/bars. There was rain and lightening last night and a bit of a light shower on the way here this morning but the clouds and the wind were to my advantage because it kept the heat out of the AM and cleared the skies and increased the temperature for the PM. I will join the hotel walking tour of the museum in the morning and hope to get a beauty treatment as a treat tomorrow. I must sign off now and stop drinking this delicious wine. The shops are due to open again soon and there is much to soak in, in Spain even the supermarkets are interesting! Oh my goodness a daggy tourist train just pulled up…I simply MUST get a photo for Facebook!

Until next time Buenos Tardes – From the Happy Pilgrim

Pilgrims are a community of their own but they aren’t all the same. I thought I would put some observations together about the Pilgrims on my Camino.

Solo Pilgrims
There are two obvious types (by gender); lone, male Pilgrims are a minority group, and while they are good conversationalists they are no match for the female counterparts! Solo, male Pilgrims are usually young (and racing ahead like the Italian contingents) or older and very quiet, happy to walk their own pace (like the German man I spoke with many days back). This brings me to the conclusion that they are generally a) young and in a hurry, b) retired and have plenty of time or c) like Hans from Holland who I walked with today for about 5kms into Fromista, has had a change of pace and given himself permission (time out) to enjoy the Camino.

Then there are solo female Pilgrims (a majority group) also in three age categories; a) young students, b) retired individuals with plenty of time (some of them widows) and some are divorced and mostly have limited time but are doing the Camino in stages. Actually, speaking to the retired ladies I am convinced they are equally as busy as they were before they retired but just doing things they want to do (not that they have to do).  Then o f course there is category  c) these are the ladies who are married or divorced with or without children who have given themselves permission to have some time out to enjoy the Camino experience. Many have been dreaming and planning for a long time and are happy to enjoying their adventure (blisters and all!)

Pilgrims in pairs (couples)
These Pilgrims are quiet and I have seen many of them in hotels (but they do stay in albergues). Because they have each other for company they tend to stick together, but not necessarily do they walk side by side. Last night a couple sat behind me while I wrote my last piece and were obviously facilitated by what I was doing. It wasn’t until they were leaving that they decided to strike up a conversation with me. They were from Santiago and they had done the Camino before. It sort of made me think that we hold back with conversations with strangers, we avoid it because we are shy or don’t want to offend but most people are happy to chat, especially if you have something in common. I showed them some of my photos and we agreed the church in San Juan de Ortega was outstanding and that the Camino was a very special experience that we were fortunate to experience. Couples are shy but great peopl and I will be more mindful when I shy away from a conversation with them.

Pilgrims in packs (young people in groups of four to six or more)
Young people can talk endlessly for hours about nothing (I was one myself once and I know this to be true). They squeal with excitement, chat about what is important to them (girls tend to talk about boys and how to look good) and like to sing and take photos of themselves. Boys I can't say for sure, they don't speak so loudly that I can overhear them!

I walked in front of a group of young ladies from the US this morning and they cracked me up a number of times. While I am not comfortable about sharing everything I was privy to eavesdrop on, this one is particularly noteworthy. Someone in the albergue was passing judgement about one of the ladies porting her bag forward. Now, for what ever reason she had it’s her own business right? Who would be so forthright? Yes I was on the same page, then next thing one of the walking companions said ‘aren't we all just supposed to be allowed to do our own Camino, our own way? I don’t think Jesus would be worried if you don’t carry your pack” I was already smiling widely at some of the earlier  things they were talking about but I loved this so much I turned around told them they were so right and did the two big thumbs up. Another one of those magic moments.

At their request I took a photo for them at the top of the huge big hill coming out of Castrojeriz (the one I named after my walking companion Laurel). Then I saw them again briefly in Ermita de San Nicolas where I stopped for a much needed toilet and rest break and got a stamp. Some of them looked like they were at the beach, making great use of the Spanish sun, I sincerely hope they achieve a healthy tan. They were young, and cheeky and happy and doing the Camino at a reasonably young age. It was lovely to watch and hear them and assist them with a simple request to take a photo. I imagine it's already on Facebook!

Pilgrims on-tour (ladies, usually in groups of five to ten and usually hang out in hotels)
These ones make me laugh. They are noisy and happy and goodness knows how, but they an talk endlessly! I walked in front of some ladies from Argentina a week back and they chatted excitedly for probably 65ms out of town. The funny thing was I was just thinking to myself “glad I didn’t have that cup of tea and had hot chocolate instead, because about now, I would be wanting to go to the toilet”. Next minute, all went quiet and they stopped and some of them went into the bushes for a “toilet stop”! How hilarious, and what a strange coincidence. It is nice to hear the voices of chatter (it’s nice to hear the quiet too) but sometimes when you are walking along for a few kilometres when you come upon a group of chatter-boxes it’s nice to hear them for a while.

There are of course other categories of Pilgrims (those on bikes and those riding donkeys). So far, I have not been fortunate to strike up a conversation or build by knowledge around them to provide a report. I will endeavour to update this post if/when this occurs.

Update Tuesday 2nd June, new category "Baby Pilgrim". I met the parents by chance (without the baby) in Fromista in one of the churches there. There was a special museum (only 1 Euro) and they were getting three passports stamped and I figured it was for a baby that wasn't with them. I was lucky to stumble across them today on a shady section of the ancient Roman road. A couple a baby and a travelling companion and I stopped to say hello. It was a delight to see the happy youngster and while it wouldn't be easy they all looked happy. I took this little gem with me for quite a few kilometres down the road!

Until next time - They Happy Pilgrim

On Friday 29 May I left Burgos alone and, approached the Meseta with an open mind and heart. To be quite honest I haven’t been over fussing about anything much except the need to have clean smelling (dry) clothes! Many people “skip over” The Mesta as they fear it will be too lonely, or boring but I knew it would be beautiful as it actually offers wide open spaces and today and yesterday, clear blue (cloudless) skies. I was mindful of Suzanne’s parting advice on watching those signs out of Burgos, and was not interested in a repeat of the Lost-in-Logrono episode!  I found my way to the back of the Catedral de Santa Maria XIII, the second largest of Spain’s many amazing cathedrals. I knew I was supposed to go left because (that would be west and place the sun on my back)  but I went right to find a marker and reference point.

Sure enough, a few moments later  some other Pilgrims came along and helped me find my bearings. I walked in front of them and kept my eyes peeled for about 2kms and once, when I got a bit distracted I turned around they once again pointed me the right  direction.At some point they caught up with me (probably at a traffic light) and asked me where I was from. I told them Austraia and they told me they were from Madrid.  We chatted and I asked if they minded if we walked together for a while. They were brisk walkers (not too slow and not too fast). It wasn’t until later in the day (about 6-7kms before the end) that they suggested we slow down. I then realised they were keeping pace with me and I had thought I was keeping pace with them! I will be more mindful when I walk with someone again.

There is a wonderful story about Carmen and Raphael that truly warms the heart. Carmen was a retired school teacher and Raphael, a retired Doctor. Carmen spoke “survival English” which was considerably better than my “survival Spanish”! We were successful at some conversations and less than successful in others, which meant we chose our conversations mindfully. Amazingly I was able to glean that they went on the Camino once a year and this year they were walking Sunday-Sunday ending in Castrojeriz and stopping over in Hornillos (which was the same schedule I was following) except I went to a quaint B&B in Isar 3kms out of Hornillos.  Carmen enjoyed walking (and I have no idea how old they were but I guessed around early 60s but with retirement age different all around the world it is hard to konw). Their walking pace was strong and healthy. Carmen had experienced a fall and injured her shoulder so they were porting their bags and staying in albergues. Raphael carried a walking pole and had a blister but they appeared to be more than capabile of managing the Camino. I wanted to say to Raphael that if more people walked he would have less patients but it was too difficult and would have got lost in translation. I figured he knew this already.

We seemed to being enjoying the wide open spaces, the rolling hills and the big blue sky. Carmel loved the poppies (same as I do) and showed me a photo of herself with some of the Spring flowers in in her sun hat taken recently on thier week long journey. Every now and then we would stop for a photo and they would take one of me (and me one of them) and then Carmen wanted Raphael to take a picture of both of us. I asked if we could get one of the three of us and smiled broadly to discover that “selfie” is the same in Spanish! We walked with a French man for a short time (Pasquale) and he and Carmen sang some lovely songs together and I found myself warmed not by the sun but by the magic of the Camino. There were songs she sang that I sang along in English (or just hummed if I couldn’t remember the words). I wasn’t 100% sure (because of the language) but Carmen taught little children in junior school and I wouldn’t have been surprised if she taught singing. She was involved in a community choir (like Nuala in Ireland) and went to many concerts but was also involved in communtiy theatre including a local verion of Aida.

When Carmen asked me if I sang much I was embarrassed that I do not (singing brings such joy). But both Carmen and Raphael were very impressed when I played them some of my favourite tracks in my iPod play list “songs that remind me of Spain”. They laughed at the Ricky Martin song Cup of Life (La Copa de la Vida) – Music of the World Cup and sang along to the whole song Guantanemera.  They were impressed and pleasantly surprised that I even had Placido Domingo’s version of Nessun dorma. I welcomed Carmen’s singing along and the joy of sharing some of these beautiful songs with her. It reminded me of a conversation I had with Nuala a few days before when we walked together, Nuala is involved in a Community Choir and they sing songs together from all around the world. It's such a leveler and a way to bring equality and harmony.

People passed us and we passed others but the wide open spaces were very suitable for Carmen and Raphael to sing. We met an Italian who walked past us briskly and declared his nationality “Italiano” and zoomed on, breaking into a run. If my walking companions spoke English I might have said “he’s in a hurry, perhaps he is catching a bus” but I knew the humour might not work so I smiled and looked at Carmen and she smiled back. We did a bit of sign language and then both agreed he’s in too much of a hurry to enjoy the beautiful landscape.  There are many people who have been rushing on the Camino and I have a feeling that The Meseta sorts them out.

We stopped at Tarjados (which is half way between Burgos and Hornillos del Camino) and while I went to “il bano” they kindly ordered a coffee. An Australian I sat next to on the bus between Bayonne and St Jean Pied de Port happened to be sitting at the table and recognised me and said hello. She looked very tired and was powering on, aiming for 30kms that day. She wanted to get to Santiago de Compostella (SdC) by a set date and had been walking with a great bunch of Americans (not on a set time frame) and was trying to make up lost time. It was nice to speak to another Aussie but it wasn’t meant to be that we would walk together that day. Perhaps we will catch up another day. Raphael took a phone call from home, his 95 year old mother had taken ill and they were trying to find access to the internet to find out more. It may have meant they might have to return home so I wished them well and went on for an hour or so by myself. I stopped to help a Pilgrim take some photos of herself only to find Carmen and Raphael again (big smiles) the mother was okay and they were able to continue. They invited me to continue walking together and they both sang their favourite songs. It was really beautiful.

I didn’t explain earlier but The Mesta took me by surprise (I actually thought it was later on in my journey) this is one of the joys of not reading too far ahead in the Brierley Guide book! One minute I am rearranging some of my days to make them a bit longer so I can extend my rest days in Leon and Santiago de Compostella and the next thing I realise it's here already! I had not time to be concerned and this approach worked well for me. Later in the day I finally pulled out my big camera from my back pack and took some photos of the big wide open spaces my eyes had been soaking the scenery up like a sponge and it was time to capture it. The iPhone or the Canon camera does the experience no real justice but I took photos because it’s fun to do so. I also took the opportunity to take a few photos of Carmen and Raphael. At Hornillos del Camino I said farewell to to my friends from Madrid, exchanged emails and promised to send them some photos. They knew I was going all the way to Finnisterre and wished me well and said they hoped to see me again.

Day two was even more beautiful than day one (and I am going to post this now and reflect back in Leon). I found myself alone but warmed by the sun on my back and seeing Pilgrims in front and behind me. The scenery was spectacular (not sparse at all) and with the wind dying down the heat of the plains was lovely (as I expected Spain to be at this time of the year). It really is sensible to get up early and walk in the cooler part of the day. Arriving around 1:30-2:30pm before it gets too hot. Rest up, shower and wash clothes, catch a nap even  and then explore the village. Working up a great appetite and then having dinner and “vino tinto” (red wine).

Probably starting a bit later than my friends from Madrid I ran into them again at the half-way point (10kms) at Hontanas. Carmen was helping another Pilgrim to take a photo before heading out as I had arrived. We embraced and said hello (she said she had been keeping an eye out for me) I showed her some of my photos and promised I would email her the rest of them. I sat with Christine from the US and told her my story of walking with the couple yesterday. She knew them because they were at the same albergue together the night before and there was lots of singing. No surprises there.

I am posting this tonight from my dinner table in a busy, noisy resturant in Castrojeriz. The Pilgrims have now gone home and the locals are out to eat (phase two of dinner time in Spain). Many Pilgrims will say that their menus are average (some are okay) and some are absolutely revolting. Tonight is no exception,  I had spaghetti and could have kicked myself (only I stubbed my pinkie on my bag already). It looked like it could have come straight out of a can. I tasted it, played with it, searched for meat and dipped some bread in it and then politely left it. Then there was beef stew next, which was two pieces of meat, and chips with some sauce. I ate that because I was hungry and then (because I still have a cough), I got icecream again. Luckily I went to the supermarket before dinner and purchased 9 apricots and ate 3 on the way back to the hotel. I opened up some nuts (for tomorrow) and ate a few of those and now I am up to my second glass of wine (or was that third)? As soon as I post this with a few photos I will be off to bed. Tomorrow it’s Castojeriz to Fromista (25kms) and the weather is a top of 27 and a low of 11 overnight. I will leave a bit later than planned as breakfast isn’t until 8:00am. I can’t possibly head off without breakfast given lunch and dinner are so late. There is a strenuous climb out of town (apparently). Which means I will probably need another little siesta in the afternoon when I have done my 25kms!










I ran into Karin and her sister Lucia walking in to town this afternoon and walked with Karin for a while. It was lovely to see her again (both of the ladies are enjoying the Mesteta just like I am). We agreed that the wide open spaces allow us more time to focus on the detail like the birds singing or the wind energy turbines on the horizon or a car on a distant road, or the flowers in the fields or especially yesterday the wheat moving in the breeze like and ocean. There is so much beauty here it’s amazing. “You wouldn’t be dead for quids”! I can certainly get used to Spain.

Until next time – The Happy Pilgrim

The Camino has a way of providing lessons,  and while I am not exactly sure “navigating” was one I really needed between Logrono and Najera (walking in Friday 22 - out Saturday 23 May), it was the lesson that presented itself to me!  You know the feeling when something goes wrong at the start and it just continues on? Well, that was my experience. “Lost in Logrono”,  provided many laugh-out-loud moments which were just too quirky to keep to myself.

Leaving Los Arcos was fine and I walked by myself for part of the day. I stopped in at the free wine fountain in Irache. It was too early for me to have a red wine but I got my photo taken (like a tourist does) and kept moving forward. I had a brief chat to a man in his 70s from Germany and was super-vigilant about keeping my eyes peeled for the sign posts. I didn’t have Charlotte to keep me focussed and needed to focus myself.  Sometime in the early afternoon I ran into Naula and we started to walk together. It had been a quiet morning and I was grateful for the company. For a woman of 57 Nuala has a cracking pace and is a fabulous conversationalist.

Towards the end of our journey (nearing the city) we stopped at a little house and purchased some souvenirs from an old lady with four dogs (all on chains sadly but they were friendly). About 20 minutes earlier we had walked with Lars a short way and chatted, Lars (from Denmark) was at Orrisson the same time as I was.  Lars stopped for a  bit more of a chat and asked to have a photo of me to show his wife because I look like a friend of hers.. He’s 67 and enjoys posting photos of his journey on Facebook and I figured no harm and I would get one of us too. My vanity kicked in and I asked him how old was his wife’s friend, but he didn’t hear me or chose, politely not to say…. He didn’t do selfies (but I talked him round).

We all sat on our benches which were placed strategically for Pilgrims on either side of the little road in the shade and had a short break. We had spent some money at the roadside stall and figured it was a good place as any. Lars reviewed Nuala’s photos taken on his camera in the shade of the tree and laughed at how she had pressed multiple times and he had only wanted one photo of us (not 20!). We laughed and walked in to town and went our separate ways. Lars wanted food before he found a hotel, it had been a very long day and he wasn’t interested in an albergue!   I wanted to get into a bath and have some rest before exploring. Nuala’s hotel was right there in front of us as we crossed the bridge and not very far from the square. In my humble opinion, this is essential criteria for Pilgrim accommodation.

I took a long time to find my hotel (I should have picked up a better map) but I was too busy looking around that I went straight past the Tourist Information. If I hadn’t wandered into the old quarter I may have been able to work out the city better right from the start. About 40 minutes later I stumbled in (saw my luggage) and was relieved. There were two Pilgrims who obviously found the place better than me sitting there waiting for their luggage which unfortunately had been misplaced. Then two more Pilgrims walked in (a couple from Ireland) who had been at the same place as me in Los Arcos the day before.  They had also had  a lot of trouble finding the place which didn’t make me feel so silly.  We did have maps but it’s hard to find street names and the map provided didn’t have the town Cathedral as a reference point so I was disorientated. Also many maps don’t include those tiny little streets. So when something looks like three streets over you don’t always count those lane ways (apparently). My experience so far in Spain is that you meet the nicest people when you are lost and you’re not lost for long.

I found my way to the square easily that evening and after a lovely long warm bath met up with Suzzanne, Helen, Nuala and sisters Karin and Lucia. We had a Pilgrims menu served by a very cheeky man from Romania. He was entertaining and worked very hard to please us with wifi passwords, getting our menu right and bringing us endless bottles of red wine! Quite a treat really.  Helen left us earlier as she had a curfew on at her albergue and when all the Pilgrims left then local crowd rolled and started their late eating schedule. We were tired and headed out a bit later than usual around 11:00PM. I had found my navigation system and pointed out the direction of Nuala’s hotel and offered to walk Suzanne  home. We got a bit lost and confused but finally found Suzanne’s place but then I over shot my block and had to pop into a bar for more directions. I wasn’t far off but my compass was out and I was starting to get annoyed with Logrono! Time for a good sleep it had been a long day with all those extra kilometres.

After a delicious breakfast (including much-missed muesli) I wasted a lot of time getting out of town and despite the warning from the BrierIey guide I was “ill prepared?.  I left my clip off my mobile phone in the dinning room (only got to the lobby) so I went back for that. Then I discovered that the bottom half of my new Leki pole had dropped off (so I went back to my room to double check that), no luck there. I wondered through the city square and tried to pick up signs and Pilgrims but both were few and far between. I went past a bin and “unburdened” myself of my dysfunctional walking pole and decided that if I were to get another one I wouldn’t spend any more than 10Euros because I have so much bad luck with them so far. I only use them for the steep down hill descents  in slippery-muddy conditions. Mostly the stick is hanging off my back pack.

I got our my map and my maps.me app and proceeded out of the city (slowly). It was bike riding Pilgrims that gave me reassurance for the first part of the day, they zoomed by and called out “Beun Camino” which made me very happy.  I was heading out in the right direction but couldn’t see any Pilgrims. When I did see one it was for a short time and then I couldn’t catch them up. I must have been in a disreputable part of town but didn’t notice until a saw two cars (one red and one blue) parked “on” the corner as a crossed a street. They weren’t double parked they had no one in them but the were on that curved part. It made me smile and I really wanted to take a photo but the girl hanging out of the bar with two blokes beside her made me uneasy so I moved on.

About 700metres down the road two Spanish business men in a flash sports car stopped me and asked me for directions. The irony of that one hasn’t left me either. I offered them my map but they kindly declined (it wasn’t really helping me so someone may as well get some use from it!). I made it to the edge of town and saw the businessmen at a factory or distillery site so they had found their destination only 800metres down the road. By this time I had already walked about  3-4kms and was feeling anxious that I hadn’t seen a walking or riding Pilgrim for quite some time. I  saw a sign post to  Najera (La Rioja), it was one of those big freeway signs but no Camino signs. I found a nice man who was going for his morning walk in a park and asked him for directions. I had over-shot by one road which meant going back around a curved parkland in front of many high rise units. There are lots of those here in Spain. I needed to navigate  to get back under a freeway and cross the road. It was elevated and I could see Pilgrims there in the distance (boy was I happy!).

I had lost quite a bit of time and didn’t really reach the outskirts of town until around 10:00AM. There were less Pilgrims (due to the time of day) and the signs we less frequent and quite different to the ones I was used to since St Jean Pied de Port. I stumbled across Marcellino Lombato “El Peregino Pasante” he was stamping Pilgrim Passports in the parklands and this is where I found sufficient Pilgrims to stop worrying.  The first ones (again) were bike riders who probably don’t need to set off so early! I walked on and found my walking rhythm for the day ahead.

I found a bar in a small town and though I would grab something to eat and use the toilet. Bars in Spain aren't anything like the bars in Australia they serve food and often have children in them (even late at night). Sitting in the chairs outside were the two sisters from Holland (Karin and Lucia) I waved to them and headed inside to use the bathroom and order something to eat. I ran into Nuala who had just got there herself and she kindly invited me to get a bite to eat with her.. We rested and chatted a while and Nuala and I walked most of the way into town together. She stopped off in the park and I kept going, mindful that it’s nice to be with people but you don’t need to be with people all the time.

My day ended with a few more “lost” moments. The instructions were simple enough just over the bridge, stay on The Camino, it’s on your left. I asked a local waitress who didn’t have a clue, then a local well dressed lady (in her 70s), probably on her way to church, who sent me back across the bridge in the opposite direction. I knew this wasn’t right but I was too polite to ignore her. Then I met the hotel owner who was coincidentally in another bar across the bridge  who said “you can’t miss it” its 20metres from the bridge. By the time I tried again I was tired and decided to go into a shop. I asked a kind man in a hardware store. He walked out of his shop (left the door open) and walked with me around the corner (about 10 doors away) right to the front of the hotel. I thanked him warmly and shook his hand. He was my Camino blessing for the day.

Ran into Suzanne the next morning as I came out of my hotel. I walked a cracking pace with her to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. St Domingo was dedicated to helping Pilgrims. There is a quirky legend about keeping his legend alive with a rooster and a hen in the cathedral coop. Those interesed can google it. When I get home I may post a link but no time to be a historian.

The curse of the lost Pilgrim had lifted and the breeze felt nice on my smiling face.