The Happy Pilgrim

I have just reached the half way point of my epic Pilgrimage and it’s hard to believe how quickly the time has passed. The official “halfway” point between St Jean Pied de Port and Santiago de Compostella is Tarradillos de los Templarios my destination point on Tuesday 2nd of June. As I am going on to the “End of the Earth” (Finisterre) which is  another 90kms the more accurate midway point for me is Leon. I have walked a few more kms in this stage and plan to walk a few more than scheduled so that I can enjoy a three night rest in both Leon and Santiago de Compostela.

I have experienced some magnificent countryside and met some wonderful people  and committing myself to semi-regular blogs is a great way ensure that all precious moments aren’t lost from my memory. The countryside varies from region to region. At the start of my Camino there were mountains and the views were spectacular and weather permitting the mountains were simply magnificent (breathtaking in fact). While the Pyrenees can provide changeable weather it can also open up amazing opportunities to develop resilience and make strong and very unique friendships. The moments where the sun came out not only warmed our bodies but also our spirits. The good camera  stayed in the bag and the iPhone got a work out on those wet days but there were still many opportunities to experience great beauty and appreciate the countryside. I am pleased with my addiction to document as, at this half way point it is hard to remember what day it is let alone what happened on the day I took a certain  photo. I am pleased I am writing, happy I am entertaining some and have no concern what so ever if  anyone is disinterested.

Walking gives you the opportunity to experience nature “up close” to spell your surrounding, to hear the farm animals (or the crickets or frogs) and to experience the joy of a choir of birds in the early morning. It appears that Spanish birds are “happy”, they sing loudly and for most of the day.  Perhaps it is because I am happy to be out walking that I hear them (because I know that Australian birds in Canberra are happy too. I am fotunate to experience the joy of nature for a large part of the day (20-30kms) of it in fact so I guess there is a lot of time to experience this phenomenon!.

Walking (long distances like I am doing) really makes you  appreciate your body. Predominantly your legs and feet but also your mind. Both mind and body are key elements that sustain you. You need to get your head around your distance; what you are carrying (food and snacks) and the time you leave so you arrive in time to rest and recuperate. Of course some days there is a lot of work washing and drying clothes and boots/shoes. If you push yourself too hard you could get an injury and there have been many Pilgrims carrying injuries (some quite bad ones). I am astounded how easily an injury can arise. I was overtaken earlier yesterday morning by a young man with amazing long legs who had his knee wrapped in a brace. Later in the day he had taken the brace off and was struggling to walk with the aid of his poles. As I passed him I told him my heart ached with the pain he was experiencing. I know he made it into the next town and I hope he gets the rest he needs.

I also met some Australians yesterday who had a few rest days and utilised either a taxi or bus to help them keep on schedule. Out of this party one lady (Jenny) had such bad blisters she had utilised bus and taxi, one lady (Vicky) got some cortisone injections and has been soldiering on bravely and utilising bus and taxi when needed and another Australian couple one of their party had been sent ahead by ambulance to Leon with more serious health issues internal bleeding (which made me grateful for not over dosing on my high strength ibuprofen 600mg 3 x per day as recommended at the Farmacia!

The Camino is not without incident, some Pilgrims recover and can resume their walk and some people come to the conclusion that they need to finish or make alternative arrangements by changing their itinerary. There is (from what I have heard from other Pilgrims) a great deal of soul searching with giving oneself “permission” to not complete the Camino and I do hope my preparation continues to allow me to complete my epic adventure across north-west Spain.  Thank you to those people who have been sending me well wishes through various mechanisms (email, Facebook and on my blog) and those who have kept me in their thoughts and prayers. You most definitely inspire me onwards.

I have taken up my writing and will post this piece from Leon which is indeed a most beautiful city. I am sitting in a beautiful restaurant in the square overlooking the magnificent cathederal  Santa Maria. I have had a delightful meal (lunch between 3-4pm) and know I am in a gorgeous spot because every tourist or Pilgrim that walks by stops in front of my table (and the two next to me) and takes a photo! The bight in the afternoon sun has finally subsided and the breeze is cooler and the meal has been relatively cheap and absolutely delicious. In Spain I have been eating well (when I am hungry) and starting the day as healthy as the menus provide and really celebrate the salads and vegetables. The wine is magnificent (99% of the time) and the fruit is so cheap it’s embarrassing. I brought some delicious beans in Carrion from a local grocery store and regret now not buying 20 instead of just four giant ones!

I have three nights in Leon and am staying is a gorgeous hotel that is part museum. I have a simple tidy room with a bed and my own bathroom in a magnificent setting. Breakfast is included (dinner is not). This will push me out on to the busy streets to enjoy the delicious menus on offer in the various restaurants/bars. There was rain and lightening last night and a bit of a light shower on the way here this morning but the clouds and the wind were to my advantage because it kept the heat out of the AM and cleared the skies and increased the temperature for the PM. I will join the hotel walking tour of the museum in the morning and hope to get a beauty treatment as a treat tomorrow. I must sign off now and stop drinking this delicious wine. The shops are due to open again soon and there is much to soak in, in Spain even the supermarkets are interesting! Oh my goodness a daggy tourist train just pulled up…I simply MUST get a photo for Facebook!

Until next time Buenos Tardes – From the Happy Pilgrim